Binoculars Lens
Monoculars binoculars lens are the more compact, lightweight version of the binocular. Instead of peering through two separate lenses, you view your object through one. There are many times in life when you want to see something closer: a bird in the distance, a sign up ahead, whatever it may be...and you didn't bring your binoculars and your pocket magnifier, just won't give you the optical quality and freedoms that you'd like. This is when a trusty compact monocular comes in hand. Many birders, ocean voyagers, and field enthusiasts opt for a monocular over a pair of binoculars because of its compact and convenient size. Most carry theirs in their purses, backpacks, or pockets; and are prepared wherever they may end up. If you're seeking out a new monocular for your adventures, you need to know what features and functions to be on the look out for to ensure you get the best monocular for your purposes. Below is a list of the most common and important features/functions you'll come across while shopping for a monocular:
Magnification: The magnification of your monocular and really any optical device, is the first number of the common numberXnumber equation you'll find when seeking to buy a new piece of optical equipment. For example: if a particular monocular is 10X50, the magnification is 10. What this means is that the monocular will show you objects ten times larger than how you would be able to perceive them with the ***** eye. Depending on use, monoculars usually deliver their best image quality results with a magnification of 5X or 6X.
Objective Lens or Aperture: The objective lens or aperture of your monocular is the second number of the common equation. For example: if a particular monocular is 10X50, the aperture is 50. The aperture is the diameter measurement of your objective lens, and the objective lens depending on its size controls how much light is perceived when viewing. The larger the objective lens, the more light is reflected off the object; therefore making the overall image brighter. Depending on use, with standard magnification specs work best with a 15mm aperture or objective lens.
Field of View: The field of view of your monocular is the perceived width of the image from 1000 yards away. It's good to note that the larger the field of view, the less magnification you will have; and conversely, the higher the magnification, the less field of view you'll be able to perceive of your intended object.
Eye Relief: The eye relief of a monocular is the maximum distance that your eye can be away from the eyepiece and still perceive the intended field of view. If you wear glasses, the eye relief specs are crucial. Never use anything less than a 14mm eye relief.
Close Focus: The close focus of your monocular is the minimum distance that it will be able to legibly perceive or focus, an object. Always look for a close focus that can give you a good view from even a few feet away.
In closing, if you look for the right features in your monocular, not only will your monocular perceive objects and views with the near-aptitude of a pair of binoculars; but it will also give you the ease of use and agility of a portable magnifier; so that you can see the world around you more closely...wherever your day takes you.
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For bird watching keep it around 8 or 10 power. Under $100, look for porro prism type. Porro binos are those where the front lens(objective) is not in line with the rear(occular). The tubes are thus wider than roof binos, it's not as sleek or as compact as roofs. But roofs are more complicated to build, they cost more, so any roof under $100 is missing a crucial element, phase correction. Without phase correction the images that a roof bino create will be on the blurry side.
Other things to look for are:
-prism type, BAK4 is better than BK7.
-Coating Fully Multi Coated > Multi Coated > Fully Coated.
-Waterproofing
Under $100 I'd look into something like the Bushnell Legend 8×26 or the Nikon Travellite.
cool
My buddy got my a pair last year for my B-day. Bushnell auto-focusing. 8x. There's no adjustment knob, whatever you look at is in focus, very cool field glasses.
Compact 8 x 21 Binoculars + Carry Case – Quality Optics
by Neewer Electronics Accessories
Date first available at Amazon.com: January 14, 2010
Buy new: $6.99
2 used & new from $1.99
(Ranking is updated hourly. Visit the Hot New Releases in Binoculars, Telescopes & Optics list for authoritative information on this product’s current rank.)
All good answers, so I'd just like to add to what you've already got. Some general info on camera settings: The aperture is a variable opening inside a lens that controls how much light is allowed to expose the image sensor, or film. The shutter controls how long that light is allowed to expose the image sensor or film. ISO is how sensitive the image sensor or film is to light. The light meter of your camera measures the level of light present within the frame you see in the viewfinder. Based on that value, it will assign an exposure setting using a combination of aperture and shutter speed, based also on the ISO. Varying the ISO varies that combination proportionately. The aperture dictates how long or short a duration the shutter will need to be open by the amount of light allowed through its opening, but also controls depth of field — or what within the frame is in focus depending on how far or near you are to objects relative to one another, or the focal length being used. A large aperture, while allowing more light to enter the camera — resulting in a faster shutter speed, has a more shallow depth of field — meaning, usually what is focused on will be clearly seen relative to other objects. A small aperture, while allowing more within a frame to be sharp, along with what is being focused on, allows less light to enter the camera — resulting in a slower shutter speed. A wider lens usually having a deeper depth of field than a longer lens, along with distance to subject, also plays a roll in what is in sharp focus, and what is blurred relative to the subject of focus. Your distance from an object also affects depth of field, the closer you are to an object, the more shallow the depth of field will be, resulting in most everything else relative to it to be blurred, while inversely, the farther you are from an object, the more will be in focus relative to that object. Playing around with aperture settings on your camera, you will run across how all three aspects of depth of field (aperture, distance to subject, and focal length) can be varied from one f/stop to another — which is why I am including all of this within my answer. It can be confusing, but the more you play around with your camera, the better you will understand it.
I use to sell binoculars. I figured the following out just by "playing" with them. First you focus with left eye,using the center focus wheel on the left side.(this is the non-adjustable side)(close your right eye) then you turn with your right hand, the right eyepiece until the right eye is in focus ( your left eye is closed doing this).
Now your binocular is adjusted for your eyes. When viewing all you have to do is turn the center wheel.
Note: that the adjustable right eye peice has markings, so you can return the right eyepiece to the correct place for your eyes, should it get moved.