Swift Binoculars
Whether you are an experienced bird watcher or if you’re just now beginning, it is imperative that you get a quality Swift binocular harness. Many novices feel like they are perfectly able to go without or make their own, but they soon learn that it simply doesn’t work. An integral part of birding is being able to move quickly and easily as well as to have your opticals only a few inches from you at all times.
It is equally important that your swift binocular harness is sturdy enough that it will protect your binoculars or camera no matter what. Even if you are only beginning and do not have the fanciest equipment, if you drop your equipment, your whole day is shot. It will cost you time and money. I tell you what, nothing is more frustrating than not being able to do what you came to do because of a simple binocular harness malfunction.
Well, simple is an understatement. I mean a binocular harness only has one function – to hold your equipment. If it can’t hold your equipment then what are you wasting your time for, anyway? There are several aspects to consider as you are looking to purchase a binocular harness. Keep in mind that you want it to not only hold your equipment but also to do so with a bit of style and grace.
How does a binocular harness have style and grace, you ask? Well, it should be an actual shoulder binocular harness in order to comfortably keep the weight of your equipment off your neck. By being a shoulder binocular harness, it will prevent the binoculars from swinging around as you move. After all, while birding, one wants to be able to move swiftly and quietly as they shift watching positions.
Your binocular harness should also be as practical as possible. It needs to have the ability to adjust and adapt to most types of binoculars or cameras. Get one that had adjustable straps for tension and sizing. And make sure it comes with rings and ties that can fit any type of equipment.
What I meant by style in the ‘style and grace’ comment is that along with functionality, you don’t want to look like an idiot. So get a good, sturdy binocular harness that is inexpensive and durable. And don’t even think about getting one without a 100% satisfaction guarantee and life time warranty.
US $3.50
This bra is made from a blend of nylon, polyester and spandex with Evaporator finish for moisture management and support. It features chafe free seamless construction, adjustable straps, a back hook and eye closure, smooth knit double layer cups, a rib knit support channel, a wide rib stitch support band, and offers medium impact support for a C and D cup. Available Colors Azalea, Black, Cornflower, Nude, White.
For that kind of money, your options are many. You can get the Carson 8×32 XM HD bino for about $269. The smaller 8×32 is $259. These have brilliant optics, despite the less known name, the eyepiece is spectacular. Warranty is also very good.
Or you can stick to the name brand ones like the Nikon Monarch, an 8×36 Monarch can be had for as little as $179. The 42mm ones go for nearly $300.
Bushnell has some good ones in that price range like the excursion series or the legend. I just don't like the looks of the legend.
Vortex also makes very good binos.
Head on over to http://www.opticsplanet.com, good prices and the staff is very knowledgeable.
This is from an old answer of mine, a few explanation to all the technical jargons. First there's the power and objective, you'll see this as 8×32 or 7×35. You want to keep the power, the first number below 10. Anything higher than 10 and you'll start to shake. The second number dictates the size of the bino, the bigger the brighter the image is but the heavier the bino.
Now, the glass they use in the prism. There are 2 types used, a BK-7 and a BAK-4. Of the two you want the BAK-4 prism, the image produced by BAK-4 glass is much smoother. BK-7 produce slightly more jagged edges.
Then the design of the bino, porro or roof. Porro is the classical design that has the objective lens offset from the occular, while roof has a straight tube going fom the occular to the objective. Roof is more compact and usually more weatherproof than a porro. But Porro is easier to make and hence cheaper than a roof. So rule of thumb is, if buying a bino under $150 go with a Porro. Another thing is, if buying a roof bino, make sure the prism is phase corrected. Non phase corrected roofs will produce soft images. This is sometimes mentioned in the prism glass type also such as , BAK-4 PC-3.
Then there's the lens coating, there's Fully Coated, Multi Coated, and Fully Multi Coated. FC is where you have the lenses coated with a single layer of coating, MC means one of the lens is coated with multiple layer, FMC means all lenses are multi coated. You want the FMC for the best image quality.
Other than those things above, you really can't tell just from reading descriptions whether the bino is good or bad, with binos though you do get what you pay for. The quality of the glass itself will differ from bino to bino, the design of the eyepiece will affect how the image look to you. All these they don't mention on any writeup unfortunately.